Pick the slab yourself off a real Austin floor, then one crew templates, fabricates, and installs it. Thickness changes the build and the final look.
Most slabs come in two thicknesses: two centimeters and three centimeters. The number is the actual thickness of the stone before any edge work. Both thicknesses can be used in kitchens, baths, and outdoor projects, but the way we build them is different.
A 2cm slab is lighter and usually less expensive to buy, but it needs a plywood deck underneath for support. A 3cm slab is heavier and more expensive to buy, but it can sit directly on the cabinets without extra substrate. Both can be mitered at the edges to look thicker if you want the high-end built-up profile.
The choice affects how much overhang you can have without corbels, how the edge looks, and how the countertop feels when you lean on it. We’ll walk through the build details, the trade-offs, and how to decide which thickness is right for your job.
A 2cm slab needs a half-inch plywood deck glued and screwed to the cabinet boxes before the stone goes on. The plywood adds stiffness and prevents sag over time. We seal the plywood edges and cut sink holes through both the plywood and the stone so the sink fits tight.
To get a thick, built-up look from a 2cm or 3cm slab, we cut a 45-degree miter on the underside of the front edge, then glue and clamp a second strip of stone to it. The result is a single, seamless edge that looks like a solid four- or six-centimeter slab without the extra weight and cost.
A 3cm slab can overhang up to twelve inches without corbels if the cabinets are sturdy. A 2cm slab on plywood can overhang up to ten inches. Anything beyond that needs steel brackets or corbels for support. We template the overhang to match your cabinet layout and let you test the feel before we cut.
A 2cm countertop starts with a plywood deck glued and screwed to the cabinet boxes. We use half-inch exterior-grade plywood, sealed on the edges to keep moisture out. The stone is then glued to the plywood with a thin-set mortar, and the sink cutout is made through both layers. The plywood adds about half an inch of total thickness, so a 2cm slab with a mitered edge ends up around three and a half centimeters at the front.
A 3cm slab skips the plywood. The stone sits directly on the cabinets, glued with a thin-set mortar. The extra thickness means the slab is stiffer, so it can handle more overhang without sagging. The sink cutout is made only through the stone, and the edges can be left flat or mitered for a thicker look. Because there’s no plywood, the total thickness at the front is exactly what you see, three centimeters or more if you add a miter.
Both builds include sink cutout and sink set. We template the exact cabinet layout, mark the sink location, and cut the hole on-site after the stone is glued down. The plywood under a 2cm slab means the sink sits slightly higher than on a 3cm slab, but the difference is less than half an inch and usually not noticeable once the faucet is installed.
A flat edge on a 2cm slab looks thin from the side, especially if the cabinets are dark or the countertop is light. A mitered edge adds a second strip of stone to the underside of the front, creating a built-up look that can mimic a 4cm or 6cm slab. The miter is cut at 45 degrees, glued, and clamped until the adhesive sets. The seam is ground smooth and polished so it’s nearly invisible from the front.
A 3cm slab can also be mitered for a thicker look, but it’s not always necessary. The extra thickness gives the edge a solid, substantial feel even with a simple eased or bullnose profile. If you want a high-end built-up look, a 3cm miter can create a 6cm edge without the weight of a true 6cm slab. The trade-off is that the miter adds labor and material, which changes the quote.
Edge profiles also affect how the countertop feels when you lean on it. A flat edge on a 2cm slab can feel sharp, while a mitered edge on the same slab feels softer and more substantial. A 3cm slab with a flat edge feels solid but can still be sharp if the edge isn’t eased. We’ll show you samples of each profile so you can test the feel before we cut.
A 3cm slab can overhang up to twelve inches without corbels if the cabinets are sturdy and the stone is properly supported. The extra thickness gives the slab enough stiffness to resist sag, but anything beyond twelve inches needs steel brackets or corbels. We template the overhang to match your cabinet layout and let you test the feel before we cut. If you want a breakfast bar or a large overhang, we’ll add the support during the install.
A 2cm slab on plywood can overhang up to ten inches without corbels. The plywood adds stiffness, but the slab is still thinner and more prone to sag over time. Anything beyond ten inches needs support, and we’ll add it during the install. The plywood also means the overhang sits slightly higher than on a 3cm slab, which can affect the look if you’re matching to existing countertops or backsplashes.
Support isn’t just about sag. A large overhang can also crack if someone leans or sits on it. We use steel brackets or corbels to reinforce the overhang, and we’ll show you where they’ll go so you can plan for them. The brackets are hidden under the countertop, but the corbels are visible and need to match your cabinet style. We’ll work with you to pick the right support for your layout.
A 2cm slab is usually less expensive to buy, but the plywood substrate adds labor and material cost. The plywood also means the countertop sits slightly higher, which can affect the look if you’re matching to existing countertops or backsplashes. The thinner slab is also more prone to cracking during transport and install, so we handle it with extra care.
A 3cm slab is heavier and more expensive to buy, but it skips the plywood and can handle more overhang without sag. The extra thickness gives the edge a solid feel, but it can also make the countertop feel too heavy if the cabinets aren’t sturdy. The weight also means we need more crew members to move and install it, which can change the install date if we’re short-staffed.
Mitered edges add labor and material cost, but they give a high-end built-up look that can make a 2cm slab look like a 4cm slab. The miter isn’t as strong as a solid slab, though, and it can crack if someone leans or sits on it. We reinforce the miter with adhesive and clamps, but it’s still a seam and not as strong as the rest of the slab. If you want a thick look without the miter, a 3cm slab with a flat edge is a simpler build.
Start by picking the slab. We’ll meet you at the Austin slab floor to show you the 299 lots on hand. You’ll see the actual thickness of each slab, and we’ll point out the ones that can be mitered for a thicker look. If you’re not sure, we’ll bring samples to your house so you can test the feel and the look in your own light.
Next, we’ll template your cabinets and mark the sink location. We’ll show you where the overhang will be and where we’ll add support if needed. We’ll also show you the edge profiles so you can pick the one that feels right. Once you decide, we’ll give you a straight quote with the install date in writing.
On install day, the crew will glue the plywood (if needed), set the slab, cut the sink hole, and polish the edges. We’ll clean up the site and leave you with the care instructions for your stone. If you have questions after the install, we’re reachable seven days a week by phone or email.
$38 per square foot, cut, measure, and install included. Jobs over 1,000 square feet: $30 per square foot.
Sink cutout and sink set are included in the fabrication work. Non standard work is still quoted before work begins. Send the rough square footage and the rooms involved, or call (512) 297-7493 for a straight quote.
Yes, but the build gets complicated. The plywood under the 2cm slab means the two thicknesses won’t line up perfectly at the seam. We can shim the 3cm slab to match, but the seam will still be visible. If you want a seamless look, pick one thickness for the whole job. If you’re okay with a visible seam, we’ll template both sections and let you see the layout before we cut.
Yes. The miter adds labor for cutting, gluing, and polishing, plus extra material for the second strip of stone. The cost depends on the length of the edge and the type of stone. We’ll give you a straight quote for the miter when we template, so you can decide if the look is worth the extra cost.
Generally no. A 2cm slab is too thin for outdoor use, even with plywood. The temperature changes and moisture can cause the plywood to warp, and the thin slab is more likely to crack. A 3cm slab is a better choice for outdoor projects, but even then, some stones like marble and quartz aren’t recommended for outdoor use. We’ll show you the outdoor-rated slabs when you pick.
The weight. A 3cm slab is heavy, and we need sturdy cabinets to support it. If your cabinets are older or not secured to the wall, we may need to reinforce them before the install. The weight also means we need more crew members to move and install it, which can change the install date if we’re short-staffed. We’ll check your cabinets during the template and let you know if we need to reinforce them.
We’ll check during the template. The cabinets need to be level, sturdy, and secured to the wall. If they’re not, we may need to add support or reinforce them before the install. The weight of a 3cm slab can cause sag or even collapse if the cabinets aren’t strong enough. We’ll give you a straight quote for any reinforcement work when we template.
Tell us the rooms, the rough square footage and what you have in mind for countertop thickness: 2cm vs 3cm. You get a number for the whole job, in writing, before anyone cuts anything.