Pick your slab off the floor in Austin, then we template, cut, and install your Round Rock island top. One crew, start to finish.
Round Rock kitchens often run on long islands, eight, nine, even ten feet. That much stone needs planning: where the seam goes, how the overhang carries weight, whether you want a waterfall end or a cooktop cutout. We handle all of it in one pass: template, fabricate, install.
Most Williamson County subdivisions built in the last twenty years have standard cabinet heights and clearances. That makes templating predictable, but every island is different. A prep sink at one end changes the support; a waterfall side adds square footage; a seam in the middle affects the look and the cost. We measure twice, cut once, and give you a written quote before we start.
We work with granite, quartzite, engineered quartz, marble, dolomite, soapstone, porcelain, and semi-precious slabs. Every material has tradeoffs, heat tolerance, porosity, UV resistance, acid sensitivity. We tell you what we see on the slab you pick, so you know what to expect after install.
Twelve-inch overhangs need corbels or steel brackets; anything beyond that usually needs a full-depth plywood deck. We template the island, mark the support points, and build the deck if it’s needed. Corbels can be hidden under the stone or left visible, your call. We don’t guess; we measure the span and match the support to the slab thickness and weight.
A waterfall side turns the island into a monolith. It adds square footage and looks clean, but it also means more seams and more material. We template the vertical drop, match the grain if the stone has any, and polish the edge to the same finish as the top. The seam will show; we keep it tight and level.
Nine-foot islands usually need a seam. We place it where it’s least visible, under a cooktop, near a prep sink, or at a natural break in the grain. The seam is ground flat, color-matched epoxy is used, and the joint is polished so it’s smooth to the touch. It won’t disappear, but it won’t catch a rag either.
Most Round Rock islands are built on standard 24-inch-deep base cabinets. A 12-inch overhang gives you a 36-inch-deep top, which is enough for two people to work back-to-back. Twelve inches is the usual limit for unsupported stone; anything beyond that needs corbels, steel brackets, or a plywood deck. We template the island, mark the support points, and build the deck if it’s needed. Corbels can be hidden under the stone or left visible, your call. We don’t guess; we measure the span and match the support to the slab thickness and weight.
In Williamson County subdivisions with open floor plans, islands often run ten or twelve feet long. A single slab that size is rare; most jobs need a seam. We place the seam where it’s least visible, under a cooktop, near a prep sink, or at a natural break in the grain. The seam is ground flat, color-matched epoxy is used, and the joint is polished so it’s smooth to the touch. It won’t disappear, but it won’t catch a rag either. If you want a waterfall end, the seam will show on the side; we keep it tight and level.
Overhangs also affect the edge profile. A simple eased edge is standard; a bullnose or ogee adds cost and can make the overhang feel heavier. We template the edge profile before we cut, so you can see the look in person. If you’re adding a prep sink or a cooktop, we mark the cutout on the template and double-check the clearance with the cabinet below. The template is the contract; once you sign it, we cut the slab.
A waterfall end turns the island into a monolith: the countertop drops straight down to the floor on one or both sides. It looks clean and modern, but it also means more seams and more material. We template the vertical drop, match the grain if the stone has any, and polish the edge to the same finish as the top. The seam will show; we keep it tight and level. If the stone is veined, we try to book-match the pattern so the veins flow across the seam.
Waterfall ends add square footage, which affects the quote. The vertical drop is usually 36 inches, but we measure the exact height of your cabinets before we template. If the floor isn’t level, we scribe the bottom of the waterfall to follow the slope. The seam between the top and the side is ground flat, color-matched epoxy is used, and the joint is polished. It won’t be invisible, but it won’t be a trip hazard either.
Some materials work better than others for waterfalls. Granite and quartzite are hard and can take the weight; marble and dolomite are softer and can chip at the edge. Engineered quartz is non-porous and consistent, but the resin can yellow if the seam is exposed to UV. We tell you what we see on the slab you pick, so you know what to expect after install. If you want a waterfall, we’ll show you the seams and the grain match before we cut.
Nine-foot islands usually need a seam. We place it where it’s least visible, under a cooktop, near a prep sink, or at a natural break in the grain. The seam is ground flat, color-matched epoxy is used, and the joint is polished so it’s smooth to the touch. It won’t disappear, but it won’t catch a rag either. If the stone is veined, we try to book-match the pattern so the veins flow across the seam. The seam is the weakest point; we keep it tight and level.
Seams add cost and time. The slab has to be cut, ground, and epoxied; the joint has to be polished. We template the seam location before we cut, so you can see where it will be. If you’re adding a cooktop or a prep sink, we try to place the seam near the cutout to hide it. The seam is the last thing we do in the shop; we don’t install until the joint is smooth and the epoxy is cured.
Some materials seams better than others. Granite and quartzite are hard and stable; the seam will hold. Marble and dolomite are softer and can shift; the seam may open over time. Engineered quartz is consistent and non-porous, but the resin can shrink; the seam may show a hairline. We tell you what we see on the slab you pick, so you know what to expect after install. If you want a seamless look, we’ll show you the longest slabs we have in stock.
Cooktop cutouts need clearance: at least three inches from the edge of the stone, and at least six inches from a seam. We template the cutout before we cut, so you can see the exact location. If the cooktop is gas, we mark the venting path; if it’s induction, we check the clearance for the glass top. The cutout is ground smooth and polished; the edges won’t be sharp. If the stone is porous, we seal the cutout after install.
Prep sink cutouts are simpler, but they still need planning. The sink has to fit the cabinet below; we measure the cabinet and the sink before we template. If the sink is undermount, we mark the lip on the template and check the clearance. If the sink is top-mount, we mark the rim and polish the edge. The cutout is ground smooth and sealed if the stone is porous. If the sink is near a seam, we try to place the seam under the sink to hide it.
Cutouts add cost and time. The slab has to be cut, ground, and polished; the edges have to be sealed if the stone is porous. We template the cutouts before we cut, so you can see the exact location. If the cooktop or sink is near a seam, we try to place the seam under the cutout to hide it. The template is the contract; once you sign it, we cut the slab. If you change your mind after we cut, the slab is yours.
First, pick your slab. We have 299 lots on the floor in Austin, granite, quartzite, engineered quartz, marble, dolomite, soapstone, porcelain, semi-precious. You walk the floor, pick the slab, and we reserve it. If you’re flipping a rental or staging a home, we work with a partner for rental-grade stone; you don’t have to pay for a showpiece slab. Once you pick, we template your Round Rock kitchen.
Templating takes about an hour. We measure the island, mark the overhangs, the waterfall ends, the seams, the cooktop and prep sink cutouts. We check the cabinet height, the floor level, the support points. The template is the contract; once you sign it, we cut the slab. We give you a written quote with dates; no surprises. If you want to see the seams or the grain match before we cut, we’ll show you in the shop.
Install is one day, usually. We bring the slab, set it on the cabinets, shim it level, and secure it. If you have a waterfall end, we scribe the bottom to the floor. If you have a seam, we epoxy and polish the joint. We clean up the dust, seal the stone if it’s porous, and leave you with a straight quote for the work. If you have questions after install, we’re reachable seven days a week.
$38 per square foot, cut, measure, and install included. Jobs over 1,000 square feet: $30 per square foot.
Sink cutout and sink set are included in the fabrication work. Non standard work is still quoted before work begins. Send the rough square footage and the rooms involved, or call (512) 297-7493 for a straight quote.
No. The seam will show, especially in veined stone. We place it where it’s least visible, under a cooktop, near a prep sink, or at a natural break in the grain. The seam is ground flat, color-matched epoxy is used, and the joint is polished so it’s smooth to the touch. It won’t catch a rag, but it won’t disappear either. If you want a seamless look, we’ll show you the longest slabs we have in stock.
It depends on the material. Granite and quartzite are hard and can take the weight; marble and dolomite are softer and can chip at the edge. Engineered quartz is consistent, but the resin can crack if the seam is stressed. We template the waterfall, match the grain, and polish the edge. The seam is the weakest point; we keep it tight and level. If you’re worried about weight, we can add a steel bracket behind the seam.
Twelve inches is the usual limit for unsupported stone. Anything beyond that needs corbels, steel brackets, or a plywood deck. We template the island, mark the support points, and build the deck if it’s needed. Corbels can be hidden under the stone or left visible, your call. We don’t guess; we measure the span and match the support to the slab thickness and weight.
No. The cutout has to be done in the shop. We template the cooktop location before we cut, so you can see the exact placement. If the cooktop is gas, we mark the venting path; if it’s induction, we check the clearance for the glass top. The cutout is ground smooth and polished; the edges won’t be sharp. If you change your mind after we cut, the slab is yours.
Marble and dolomite are the softest and most porous. They etch from acids like lemon and vinegar, and they can chip at the edges. They’re also the most likely to show seams and scratches. If you want marble, we’ll show you the slab and tell you what to expect. Granite and quartzite are harder and more durable; engineered quartz is non-porous and consistent. Every material has tradeoffs; we tell you what we see on the slab you pick.
Tell us the rooms, the rough square footage and what you have in mind for kitchen island countertops in round rock. You get a number for the whole job, in writing, before anyone cuts anything.